Four Courses: Rasika West End Chef’s Table 06.24.2012

The spiced, crispy spinach is just the tip of the iceberg. Using “iceberg” in an analogy for an Indian feast may seem out of place, but it is the perfect description for chef’s table at Rasika West End because it is big and powering.

I’ve been eating at Rasika in Penn Quarter for years and know the work of Chef Vikram Sunderam: this is not your grandmother’s Indian cooking. Rasika West End is the same brilliance as the Penn Quarter location. The crispy spinach is wildly famous, but you are urged not to stop there. The rest of the menu will knock your socks off.

I, along with Eric and group of lucky foodies recently had the first chef’s table at Rasika West End. The first of many courses was the crispy spinach, but you have no idea of the pleasure that followed. Dish after dish of interesting, inventive flavors, and well-paired wines. There was a lot of moaning.

We arrived early for pre-dinner cocktails at the bar, and then the six of us were huddled downstairs, past the bustling kitchen into a glass-encased room set only with one round table and chairs.

Simon demonstrating hyper-decanting

Sommelier Simon Stilwell stayed with us through each course describing the food and introducing the wines. I wish every chef’s table had someone like Simon managing the proceedings. He is quick, witty, and gets into the gritty details foodies love to hear.

For one course, he brought us a Spanish white, giving only the tiniest pour. He then poured what was in the bottle into a blender – yes, a blender – and ran it. This is called hyperdecanting. We then tasted the wine after and it tasted better, more open.

Every now and then Chef Vikram would pop in to chat about the food, as would the Chef de Cuisine, Manish Tyagi. And this is what a chef's table is all about, isn't it? Getting so close to the food, the people who make the food, understanding how they work -- it makes a meal memorable.

Incidently, owner Ashok Bajaj was Washingtonian Magazine's restauranteur of the year. I know who I would have my pick as chef of the year!

My friend David of the blog Pleasures of the Table also blogged about this meal -- his photos are fantastic so check out his post.

Below are photos of all the food we ate with the wine pairing. Enjoy!

Amuse - Palak Chaat. Wine: Conde de Subirats, Cava Brut Rosé, NV, Catalonia, Spain

We started with the Palak Chaat, followed by the Sev Batata Puri, Avacado Banana Chaat, and Sweet Potato Tuk. These are all exceptional savory starters. While the crispy spinach is a huge favorite, I prefer Sev Batata Puri and Avacado Banana Chat, an unusual (and delicious) twist on traditional Indian street food.

Crab-Calamari-Scallop-Shirmp. Wine: Vassiliou, "Retsina of Attica", Savatiano, NV, Attica, Greece

I can't believe there was a time in my life when I did not eat seafood. All of these dishes have varying degrees of heat, but there is some there. My favorites of this course were the Dakshini Scallops and the Calamari Chili Garlic.

I was happy to eat the Crab Pepper Masala (pictured at the top of this post) since the last time I ate at Rasika West End I was getting over a cold and did not properly taste everything.

Assorted Kebabs. Wine: Telmo Rodriguez, "Gabo do Xil", Godello, 2007 Valdeorras, Spain (hyperdecanted)

I have to admit, I'm not a big fan of kebabs and was hesitant when the chicken kebabs arrived. There has been much dry meat in my life and it's not pleasant. But Rasika's kebabs were all tender -- even the chicken. Perfect with chutney and naan.

Black Cod West End Style. Wine: Chateau D'Escalans, "Whispering Angel", Grenache Rose, 2011 Cotes de Provence, France

One the favorite dishes over at Rasika Penn Quarter is the black cod, and I think it's going to be a favorite at the West End location. The one on this menu is called Khatta Meetha Black Cod, which means tangy-sweet in Hindi. The cod is beautifully tender and flavorful. Sitting next to the piece of fish is curried quonia -- really a fantastic take on a healthy-but-uneventful quasi-grain.

Curry. Wine: Shina's Estate, "The Guilty", Shiraz, 2008 Victoria, Australia

I love the idea of a curry course. There should always be a curry course. And sometimes, that is the only course I need. There were so many elements that it was a little overwhelming. The first picture here is the Kid Goat Biryani, followed by the Chicken Tikka Masala. This, I have to say, completely, utterly blew me away. It is possibly the best chicken tikka masala I have tasted. There were vegetarian dishes as well, including Panjabi Khadi and Lentils. The Panjabi Khadi is a personal favorite.

Dessert: Gulab Jamun and Kulfi. Wine: Heinz Eifel, Eiswein, 2009 Rheinhessen, Germany

I cannot tell you how many times I have been at an Indian restaurant and forgotten to photograph the Gulab Jamun. And that is because I eat it as soon as it is put in front of me. Devine sweetness: you must have it. We also had with the dessert course the kulfi, which is Indian ice cream. I remember when I was growing up, my mom had brought from India aluminum kulfi molds -- they are cone-shaped. She would pour the liquid mixture -- usually pistachio-flavored -- into the molds and place in the freezer to set.